As we progressed further up the Escarpment Road, originally built by Italian prisoners of war during World War 2, the settlements got sparser and sparser. Densely forested areas then replaced the villages. Soon, we drove over a ridge and suddenly appeared to be heading straight into the abyss. That abyss was our first proper sighting of the Great Rift Valley – a sight no one ever forgets.
A Thrill Ride Through the Valley
The road here actually hangs onto the very steep mountainside on the right side. Moreover, only a barrier stands between the cars and the incredible expanse of the Rift on the left. The valley was half covered in thick white fog that crept upwards as we drove, absolutely mesmerised, for a few steep kilometres downhill, until we reached the bottom.
Cycling Safari Adventure
After that, the drive to our first destination for the day, Hell’s Gate National Park, was a straightforward affair. Soon, we arrived at the Elsa Gate, the main entrance to the Park. We bought our tickets and rented bikes for our cycling safari, as strange as it may sound. The main, wildlife-oriented, wide expanse of the park starts immediately after the gate.

Wildlife Encounters
The wide expanse of the Hell’s Gate National Park is the only place we know of in Kenya where you can cycle or walk totally unsupervised. The size of approximately 70 square kilometres makes Hell’s Gate one of the smallest National Parks in Kenya and beyond. However, it more than makes up for its relative lack of size with its geographical diversity and the accessibility of wildlife.

Birdwatcher’s Paradise
Cycling, even when done at a snail’s pace, for we stopped countless times to admire the wildlife, still took us through this 4 kilometre stretch between the Elsa Gate and the Ranger’s Station on the other end far too quickly. Rare lammergeier vultures, better known as bearded vultures, make their home in Hell’s Gate. It has played a major role in maintaining their population. They share the park with more than 100 other bird species, making it a prime destination for dedicated birdwatchers from all over the world.
Warthogs and Zebras
Although we saw many high flying large birds, we were too far away to actually get a really good look. However, the main attraction for us on this visit were the oh so many wonderful creatures that seemed to be all around. We did not even clear the first stretch of the dusty road through the park when a pack of warthogs appeared on our right, just a few metres away.


Stay Safe, Stay Alert
The only animals you should really be aware of are the buffaloes. Do not get close to them as they are notoriously bad tempered. However, as long as you keep your distance, they will leave you alone. A group of free-ranging buffaloes in the Hell’s Gate National Park – we decided not to get any closer.
Rest and Relaxation
After a long day of cycling and exploring, you’ll want to unwind in comfort. Luckily, there are several accommodation options near Hell’s Gate National Park, ranging from budget-friendly campsites to luxurious lodges. Consider staying at the Lake Naivasha Country Club or the Hell’s Gate Country Club, both offering stunning views and easy access to the park.


Memories to Last
Cycling through the park was an unforgettable experience. With its unique landscape, diverse wildlife, and lack of predators, Hell’s Gate National Park is a must-visit destination for any nature lover or adventure seeker.



